If Ukraines Maidan revolution has significantly not led to the transparent government its supporters envisioned, it has certainly democratised Ukrainian culture. The countrys capital, Kiev, is at the forefront of a powerful new wave of creativity

On a sultry Saturday evening in August, hundreds of young Kievans have descended on a vast courtyard a few miles from the city centre. As a DJ spins electronica in front of a 20 -ft LED screen, partygoers stand in a paved open region bobbing their heads to the music, mobbing the bar, or sneaking off to a leafy grotto to chat and canoodle.

The scene evokes late 90 s Williamsburg , not the capital of a crisis-wracked country at war. Lately there are so many more presents, so many more interesting parties like this, says Ilya Myrokov, a 25 -year-old dentist with a bowl cut, shaking his head as he sips brew from a plastic cup. Compared to two years ago, its like an explosion.

Last year, Ukraines economy shrank by 12%. Its slow-drip, two-and-a-half-year conflict with Russia has killed nearly 10,000 people and displaced about two million in the east of the country. But if the Maidan revolution , which deposed a Russia-friendly regime in February 2014, has significantly failed to install the transparent, democratic government its supporters foreseen, it at least appears to have democratised Ukrainian culture.

Bold young artists, promoters, entrepreneurs and officials have quietly begun to transform this city of three million into a hotbed of urban ingenuity, with innovative theatre, outdoor concerts and food events, a slew of smart bars and cafes, and a flowering of movie production and appreciation.

People stopped being afraid, after Maidan, says Ivan Kozlenko, the 35 -year-old general director of Ukraines national film archives. Nobodys afraid any more to say what they believe, to express their visions, their ideas. Young Ukrainians today they are so free, and the revolution moved them, spurred them.

The
A still from 2015 movie The Russian Woodpecker, which won the Sundance grand jury award for world cinema documentaries. Photo: Everett/ Rex/ Shutterstock

Much of Kievs new cultural thrust has been in response to recent turmoil. Class act, a recent conflict-focused theatre project led by Edinburghs Traverse theatre company, brought together Ukrainian youth from the countrys east and west. A song about Donbass, the Ukrainian region under conflict, by the Dakh Daughters a cabaret band spun off from Kievs worshipped Dakh Theatre is approaching a million views on YouTube. And of course, the Ukrainian vocalist Jamala won Eurovision 2016 with a song about the agony of Crimean Tatars.

But film may be Kievs current hottest medium. The Russian Woodpecker, a documentary about one Kiev artists bizarrely compelling spin on Russian imperialism, took the grand-jury award for world documentaries at last years Sundance Film Festival. And Ukrainian-made docs about Maidan have won several top celebration prizes; one, Winter on Fire, was nominated for the best feature documentary Oscar.

Kozlenko has worked tirelessly to promote Ukrainian cinema, screening silent classics at major cinema festivals in Berlin, Cannes, and Karlovy Vary, and at the archives headquarters, known as the Dovzhenko Centre. He has also developed innovative fund techniques such as renting out unused building space, and lately launched a major renovation at Dovzhenko; a movie museum is also set to open next spring.

Ivan has managed to single-handedly get the Dovzhenko Centre from an actual crumbling building into a legitimate culture centre, says Myroslava Hartmond, the Ukrainian-British proprietor of Kievs Triptych: Global Arts Workshop.

Hartmond and others, meanwhile, have sought to bring high-minded works to the masses. Impressive street art has been popping up across the city. Pinchuk Art Centre, perhaps the countrys top independent art space , now postures mediators in every room of its four-floor gallery space young art those individuals who speak Ukrainian, Russian, and English and answer questions from visitors. Last years Kiev biennial, called School of Kyiv, commandeered a variety of unusual spaces a shuttered mill, a stylish store, an unused mall to reach a broader audience and assist carry Ukrainian culture into the 21 st century.

Street
Over the past year Kiev has explosion with dozens of street art projects. Photograph: Genya Savilov/ AFP/ Getty Images

Of course, Kiev has its troubles. The Donbas region is still a tinderbox, with Ukraine-Russia tensions on the rise in recent weeks. Corruption remains deeply endemic. Unemployment hovers at around 10%, and the economy is still sluggish. Locals complain of huge potholes, pricey public services, and no parking.

Kiev also appears to have become a more dangerous place of late. Serious crimes have more than doubled nationally since 2013, according to the local weekly New Time. And in July, prominent journalist Pavel Sheremet was killed by a car bomb in broad daylight on a busy street in central Kiev.

But while some may dismiss the citys new fermentation as simply the latest chapter in the globalisation of hipster culture, Kievs newfound imagination marks a shaking off of the Soviet mindset, a breaking away from a past where new ideas and free thinking occurred only underground.

Consider that courtyard party. To boost revenues and attract Kievs youth, last year Kozlenko rented an entire floor of Dovzhenko to Plivka, a group known for organising all-night raves. Plivka and the other outfit, Rhythm Buro, put together that party the first event in Dovzhenkos backyard and in the process likely awakened hundreds of young Kievans to their national film archives.

Slowly, even the governments top-down Soviet style appears to be changing toward glasnost . Before Maidan, our ministry would decide what each group or theater should perform, says Ukraines culture minister Yevhen Nyshchuk a former actor and a prominent figure during the course of its Maidan protests during an interview in a stately conference room at his ministry.

In addition to promoting leaders like Kozlenko, his ministry is working with local arts organisations and international events such as the Frankfurt Book Fair and Venice Biennale. Nyshchuk himself has even get into the act, performing in a play during the course of its Class act project earlier the summer months.

Theres a Ukrainian proverb: start with yourself, says the 43 -year-old minister. So we started here, reorganising the ministry. Now we encourage self-expression. We want to support creative youth who have these new ideas and new ways to do things.

Street
Ulichnaya Eda is now one of the largest street food events in Europe. Photograph: Alamy

The Ukho Music Agency, founded by Eugene Shimalsky and Sasha Andrusyk, has in the past two years held 15 classical music concerts in unlikely spaces across the city. Envision a sea-themed Ukrainian choral work in a swimming pool; a vocal arranging in the citys botanical garden. With tickets at$ 6-10, all the shows sold out. We wanted to facilitate listening, and we wanted to tell tales about Kiev, Andrusyk explains.

While many narratives have been told of Kievs legendary all-night raves, the citys newer dining and nightlife spots are embracing a highly democratic approach. Three-year-old Closer is a greeting multi-use space, with live music and DJs, art exhibitions, film screenings and lecturings. Cafe Squat 17 b, which was opened last summertime by squatters in the adjoining build, offers well-made drinks and snacks in a quiet, shady courtyard in the city centre.

Meanwhile, Ulichnaya Eda ( street food ), the celebration founded three years ago by Roman Tugashev, a 32 -year-old former lawyer, is now one of Europes largest regular street food events. Around 100 vendors and 30,000 guests are drawn to a vast former silk factory compound one weekend per month from April to November. The selection is dizzying, from garlic butter snails to pork burritos, goat burgers to honey vodkas.

Tugashev is set to expand to other Ukrainian cities next year. Thats good news for gourmands: the festival, which receives dozens of new vendor applications each month, has emerged as an incubator for local food entrepreneurs. At least half a dozen Kiev food outlets got their start at the festival, including a Scandinavian sandwich shop, a crawfish-on-a-bun outfit, and a craft ice cream business. People were beginning to make and do whatever they want, since they are believe they can, Tugashev says. It wasnt like this a few years ago.

In terms of influence, Kiev peaked about a millennium ago, when the leaders of Kievan Rus constructed St Sophia Cathedral and the Monastery of the Caves( now a Unesco Heritage site) and embraced literacy and Orthodox Christianity, which spread across the region.

The Mongols decimated that city, and Kiev lay largely dormant for centuries . Recently, the Economist placed Kiev only 131st out of 140 global cities in its liveability rankings. Yet Ukraines capital may be quietly regaining its long-lost swagger.

Everybody abroad supposes Ukraine is in a war now, a terrible crisis, and its not safe here, says culture minister Nyshchuk. Of course there are issues, but right now we have great potential. Kiev is ensure so many festivals and events, so much creativity. Culture can play a key role in spurring development.

Follow Guardian Cities onTwitter and Facebook to join the discussion

Read more: www.theguardian.com